Namecheap.com - Cheap domain name registration, renewal and transfers - Free SSL Certificates - Web Hosting
Showing posts with label hardware Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hardware Tips. Show all posts

Tips on How to Burn CD / DVDs

0 comments
Tips on How to  Burn CD / DVDs
The ability to burn up to 650 Mb of data onto a CD is wonderful thing. However, the burn process can be problem-prone. But there are also many things you can do to avoid some of the most common problems. Below are suggestions for helping you create a perfect disc every time.

1. Use high quality disc. Defects in the media will cause defects in your written disc. Sometimes you can see physical defects in the media on the underside (where you are writing through the disc to the recording layer under the printed side, or in the middle of a DVD±R/RW). Physical defects include things like scratches, scuffs, stains, contamination, defects in the plastic, pinholes in the metal layer, or areas where the recording dye is missing.

2. Keep your hands off the disc... or at least the underside of the disc. Don’t use a "gorilla grip". Grab the disc by stretching your hand across the topside, so you are only touching the outer edges of the disc. Or, place one finger in the center hole and your thumb on the outer edge. Fingerprints or dirt on the bottom of the disc can cause distortion of the writing or reading laser.

3. Keep it dust-free. Store them in cases or sleeves, or keep the spindle of blank discs covered. Before you burn, take a look at the underside surface of the disc. If you see any dust, blow it off with a gentle shot of clean, filtered compressed dry air (not by blowing on it with your mouth). If you don’t have clean compressed air, you can gently wipe off a dusty disc with a clean, dry cloth, but you run the risk of scratching or smearing the surface.

4. Never wipe discs in a circle. In general, we don’t recommend trying to clean discs. In an otherwise hopeless case, you can try some warm soapy water, without scrubbing the surface. Rinse with warm water and dry using a compressed air or a clean cloth.

5. Burn using Disc-at-Once mode. Track-At-Once mode is meant to help avoid buffer underruns on slower computers, but causes overlapping sectors in between tracks called "link transitions". While this is allowed by the DVD specification, these discs are not suitable for use as a Master Disc for DVD Replication facilities, due to the digital errors between tracks, or possible discontinuity of the DVD timecode. In general, use Disc-at-Once unless you have to use Track-at-Once.

6. Don’t leave open sessions. Unless you are storing data in increments to a recordable disc (using multi-session recording), you should "finalize" you’re recording. This will allow your burning software program to write a lead-out to the end of your session. This is necessary for compatibility with audio CD players.

7. Close other programs. If you have problems with buffer underruns, you should choose a slower writing speed. You should also turn off virus protection software. For the best results, don’t run any other programs while you are burning.

8. Keep your hard disks defragmented. While this is a good idea for better PC performance in general, it is an especially good idea for people who do a lot of audio or video editing, or other multimedia production. If your hard disk is highly fragmented, it will have to seek too many sections in order to read and write each file. This will slow down the transfer rate of data to and from the hard drive, and it could cause buffer underruns when burning. In general, don’t let your hard drive fill up more than 75% to 80%. The hard drive fills up from outside to inside - the opposite of CDs and DVDs. This is because the transfer rate is faster at the outside, due to the greater circumference. So, the portion of the hard drive that is written to when your drive is nearly full is slower than the portion that is written to when it is nearly empty. Also, a defragmenter won’t run well or won’t run at all when the drive is too full, as it needs space to work. (see How to use Disk Defragmenter)

9. Slow your burning speed down. While higher speed recording saves time and generally results in great discs, slower speed recordings may give you your best chance for a higher quality disc, with lower error rates. If you think you have problems, or if you have time to burn, slow your burning speed down.

10. Do not burn CD from a network drive: (for example an E: drive, which is linked to a server somewhere on campus). Our network is relatively slow, and data will not be transferred fast enough to keep the burning buffer full. To reiterate: If the burning buffer empties, your burn will fail completely. Always burn using data situated on your LOCAL hard drive.

How to Recover Lost Data

1 comments
In this article you will learn how to recover lost data from the physically damaged hard drives, data recovery tips, and basic recovery methods. In the world of computers, disk problems are a serious issue. A failing hard disk can mean loss of data and/or failure of an entire system. Hard drive data recovery is the process of recovering lost data from a hard drive when the data cannot be readily accessed through normal retrieval methods. Whether your hard drive has locked up or has completely crashed there is a good chance the data can be recovered by using a variety of hard drive data recovering techniques. There are different causes of the data loss such as Electro-mechanical failure, natural disaster, viruses, sabotage, human error and data corruption. Generally speaking hard drives last 3 to 5 years. If yours is beyond this then there's not much harm in replacing it anyways. They're cheap nowadays and you'll probably end up with a bigger, faster one just because even the cheapest ones are bigger and faster. The other side of it is that their consistency is far from perfect and they are often burdened with mechanical defects and failures. The hard drive is a magnetic disc which spins and has an extended arm that collected data from any area of the hard drive. If the arm fails to function or the motor overheats or stops spinning, then there is a chance your hard drive will crash rendering data seemingly inaccessible from all hard drive areas. Most hard drive data recovery firms utilize the latest tools like magnetometers to retrieve the lost bits from the magnetic media. The recovered raw bits from the damaged hard drive are used to construct a new disk image, and the logical damage can be repaired.

As you probably know, many different things can cause hard disk failure. When you’re troubleshooting such a problem, it’s usually best to start with the simple and work toward the more complex techniques—unless you happen to know exactly what the problem is.

Here are some of the good tips on how to recover lost data.

1. Recovery through software: First try to find some good software that can recover your lost data from your friends. They may have some good data recovery software.
2. Hardware Crash: If you have detected that your hard drive is crashed then tries the normal shutting down procedures. Just pull out the plug and do not wait. Never try to save or recover the data at this time as you may lose the other saved data as well.
3. Identify the trouble in the hard disk: If you are not sure of the problem listen to your hard disk for any unusual sounds. If this is the case then you will need data recover service.
4. Verify the health of the drive: If you have determined that the drive is healthy, then you may still be able to recover the data by yourself, try using the software that can recover the data.
5. Use the drive as Slave disks: Try to connect the drive as a slave to another computer. In this way, you might be able to recover all the data. I have practically used this technique and I was successful in recovering the data.
6. Locate the corruption: You should locate the corrupted partition and this can easily be done by booting the system from the any bootable disc or using the Fdisk command.
7. Shop over the internet: Do an online research in Google for the data recovery software and see what software is ranked best and suits you. Usually the data recovery software is not free so you will have to buy it and it will surely recover your lost data if the problem is not severely mechanical.
8. RAID Drive Crash: Replace the RAID data drive that fails and never ever use it again.
9. RAID Drives: Label the multiple drives in the RAID array.
10. Database files: In case of Microsoft Exchange or SQL failure, never try the direct recovery operations on the corrupted database file instead make a copy of the database files and then start recovery on these files.
11. Utilities: Do not try to run the system utilities such as Defragmenters and volume repair utilities.
12. Other utilities: Also avoid using Volume Repair utilities if there has been power outage or if the files system is corrupted.
13. Boot drive malfunction: If the corrupted drives also have the Operating systems then things are tricky and you can boot the system from the recovery software and in this way you can find you corrupted data and you can recover it to some safe place.
14. Avoid physical cleaning of drives: Never attempt to shake or clean the data drive at your own this can do harm to your hard drive physically.
15. Do not remove drive covers: Never try to remove the hard drive covers because they have to be used by the specialists for getting the configurations and features of the hard drive.
16. Dropping the hard disks: The hard disks should not be drop like balls.
17. Exposure to water: Never try to expose the hard drive to water because there is not dryer to dry the hard disks.
18. Analyse the workplace: Pay full attention to the places where you have placed your computer because humid environment, warm places and shaky desk can do harm and can become the cause of the hard drive failure.
19. Firewalls: Make sure that you are well protected from the viruses, adware, malware, Trojan horses. An up to date anti virus and anti spyware should be installed on your computer and you should guard your PC with by putting it behind a firewall.
20. Physically damaged drives: If the drives have been corrupted physically they must be sent to a good laboratory where experts can recover the data.

5 ways to speed up your PC

0 comments

Everyone knows that Windows computers can sometimes slow down over time. While not an exhaustive list of solutions to problems. By following a few simple guidelines, you can maintain your computer and keep it running smoothly. This article discusses how to use the tools available in Windows XP Service Pack 1, 2, and 3 to more efficiently maintain your computer and safeguard your privacy when you're online. This collection presents five ways to speed up a computer.

Free up disk space
By freeing disk space, you can improve the performance of your computer. The Disk Cleanup tool helps you free up space on your hard disk. The utility identifies files that you can safely delete, and then enables you to choose whether you want to delete some or all of the identified files.

Speed up access to data
Disk fragmentation slows the overall performance of your system. When files are fragmented, the computer must search the hard disk when the file is opened to piece it back together. The response time can be significantly longer. Disk Defragmenter is a Windows utility that consolidates fragmented files and folders on your computer's hard disk so that each occupies a single space on the disk. With your files stored neatly end-to-end, without fragmentation, reading and writing to the disk speeds up.

Detect and repair disk errors
In addition to running Disk Cleanup and Disk Defragmenter to optimize the performance of your computer, you can check the integrity of the files stored on your hard disk by running the Error Checking utility. As you use your hard drive, it can develop bad sectors. Bad sectors slow down hard disk performance and sometimes make data writing (such as file saving) difficult, or even impossible. The Error Checking utility scans the hard drive for bad sectors, and scans for file system errors to see whether certain files or folders are misplaced. If you use your computer daily, you should run this utility once a week to help prevent data loss.

Check for Spyware and Adware
Spyware is software that allows companies to monitor what websites you visit or even access your computer. Adware is software that displays advertisements. Both use system resources and slow your computer down. Detecting and removing the programs will improve system performance.

Scan for Viruses
Viruses can wreak havoc on your computer. Detecting and cleaning viruses is an excellent way to improve your system's performance. There are many antivirus programs to choose from like AVG, Norton, or Bit Defender.

How to Install a new Video Card

0 comments
Installing a video card is a little bit easy. Just follow these instructions on how to install a new video card. If you’re really not sure if you can do it then you have to look for someone (like a Computer Technician) who knew how to install a video card. The first thing you should consider is choose something that fits your needs. As with the other components it is important to get something that fits your needs. So you need to decide up front what you want from your final computer. Is it a media PC, an office type PC, something as cheap as possible or a high spec gaming PC? Whichever of these it is, will mean different aspects will be more important to you, but generally the faster the better. Determine the slots of you’re video card on your motherboard. Is it PCIe? AGP? PCI? Or ISA (for old model of mainboards). Now here are some instructions on how to install a new video card.

Shut down the computer. Disconnect all peripherals from the computer. Remove the cover of the chassis. Discharge your self first by putting your both hands on the chasses. Otherwise, put on a grounding strap if you have one and follow its instructions. Remove the computer's back panel if necessary. Knock out or unscrew the metal plate on slot holder on the computer's back panel. Remove old video card gently. If your video card is an AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port) insert the video card gently but firmly into an AGP slot. Or, if you’re using a PCIe (Peripheral Component Interconnect Express) video card insert the video card gently but firmly into an available PCIe slot. Don't touch any connectors on the card. Rock it into position if necessary, but don't force it. Screw the video card into the slot holder if it has a screw hole. Reconnect the monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Reboot the computer. If your monitor displays properly, the card is working. If you here some beeps and no display on screen (see also Beep Codes). Turn off the computer, unplug all connections. Unscrew and remove the video card again and put it back gently. Reboot the computer. If it is now working then proceed to windows. Insert the video card driver CD onto the CD/DVD Rom drive and follow onscreen instructions to install driver and additional software. If Windows doesn't prompt you, manually complete the installation using the Add New Hardware control panel. After the installation of video card driver is complete. Reboot the computer.

How to know a drive is about to fail

2 comments
As reliable as hard drives have become, they still have a finite lifespan. While regular backups and RAID technology can help you prevent data loss when a hard disk drive fails, it's better to catch the problem early and replace the hard disk drive on your schedule, rather than when it decides to fail.
Ironically, improvements in hard drive technology have caused some of the symptoms of impending failure to disappear. For instance, hard disk drive and controller designs now can hide the intermittent read/write failures that once foretold a hard disk drive going bad. Likewise, today's hard disk drives are virtually silent, which eliminates the changes in sound that used to alert IT personnel that a drive was going. Bearing failures, which used to be one of the most common causes of drive failure, are much less common today.
  1. Disk takes a long time to come up. A hard disk drive that takes a long time to boot up is working hard. Maybe it's working hard because a lot of stuff needs to be initialized. But it could also be trying to compensate for intermittent read/write failures.
  2. CHKDSK shows bad sectors. Bad sectors used to be a fact of life. Not any more. These days, any bad sectors showing up with chkdsk or similar disk test utilities usually mean the disk is going away. This is doubly true if the number of bad sectors is increasing, even very slowly.
  3. Running hot. All drives get warm, but if the hard disk drive itself is running unusually hot compared to others in the enclosure, it is probably nearly the end of its useful life.
  4. Consider the drive's history. A hard disk drive that has been dropped onto a hard surface (running or not) or else has overheated should be regarded with suspicion. It's a good candidate for failure. Overheating usually occurs when an enclosure's main fan or fans fail, allowing temperature to build up. If the system gets hot enough that you start getting read-write errors before the problem is spotted and fixed, there's a good chance the lifespan of the drives has been drastically shortened.
  5. Drive LEDs that never go off. There's no relationship between overt computer activity and hard disk drive activity, as indicated by the drive LED. But if the LED used to come on intermittently and now glows constantly, something is very wrong and is probably going to get worse.
  6. Disk cannot locate file table. If the disk can't find the Windows Master File Table (MFT), especially after an unexplained crash, the disk is almost certainly dying.

By: Lutdlutod and Hectic Capiznon Bloggers 2009

How to choose a Motherboard

0 comments
Motherboards (alternatively, Mainboards, mobo, or planar boards) are the backbone of any computer system. Without a working or properly installed motherboard, the computer is just an inert junk of plastic. The latest motherboard technology right now is called PCIe or PCI Express. In PCIe, the shared bus is replaced with a shared switch. Each device in the system will have exclusive access to the switch, and the switch will be able to create point-to-point exclusive communications between devices.

When choosing a motherboard, it is important to carefully consider the following concepts.
Non-Integrated System Board – each major component are installed in computer as an expansion card, like video card, sound card, LAN card, etc.
Integrated System Board – most of the component that would otherwise be installed as expansion card are integrated into the motherboard circuitry and were designed for simplicity.

Selection of motherboards
Consider the following when selecting a new or replacing a motherboard:
1. The footprint, or size requirements, form factor of the computer case. Such as ATX (Advanced Technology Extended), Micro ATX, NLX (New Low Profile Extended), and BTX (Balanced Technology Extended).

2. Compatibility with other devices such as CPU/processor, power supply, memory modules, and storage devices.

3. Compatibility or type of BIOS (Binary Input Output System).

4. Memory needs of the system. The type of memory, is it DDR2 or DDR3? How much memory can the motherboard handle? How many modules can the motherboard physically hold?

5. Number of expansion slots. How many regular PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect)? How many PCIe? Availability of an AGP (Accelerated graphics Port) if there is?

6. Number and types of ports. How many USB (Universal Serial Bus) ports at the back of the motherboard? Are there USB slots integrate on the motherboard? Availability of a Firewire, serial port, parallel port, and keyboard and mouse port?

7. What integrated peripherals are included on the motherboard? Such as Network card (LAN card), video card, or sound card.

8. Disk controllers. IDE (Integrated Device Electronics), RAID (Redundant Array of Independent Discs), or SATA (Serial Advanced Technology Attachment).

9. Are there drivers available for all the on-board components that match the operating system you want to use?

10. Is the motherboard going to be used in a media center PC? If so, are the television/cable connections available?

See also NForce SLI Motherboard, GeForce 9800 GTX, HD 4870 IceQ 4, Kingston HyperX DDR3, Seagate Barracuda Hard disk

How to Choose the Right Memory for Your System

0 comments

Adding RAM to your PC usually delivers the most speed for your system, but only if you buy the right kind of memory module for your PC. There are more types of PC RAM. Do you want SDRAM, PC100, nonparity, or unbuffered DIMM? Why not enjoy a refreshing DDR SDRAM, PC2700, CL2.5, or registered DIMM? Here are the ins and outs of PC memory. Begin by checking your system's user manual to identify the types of RAM your PC's motherboard supports. If you don't have the manual, visit the manufacturer's Web site and search for downloadable manuals or other tools that might help you find the information you need for identifying the right RAM for your PC. Enter the make and model of your PC or motherboard to generate a list of compatible RAM types.

Before you buy consider the following:
Maximum module size:Find out the maximum size of memory module that your PC supports. Don't buy a module larger than what your motherboard's memory slots can each accommodate.

RAM and connector types: Determine which of the four types of RAM your system uses: DRAM (EDO or FPM), SDRAM, DDR SDRAM, or RDRAM. All four types are mounted on one of three module types: SIMM, DIMM, or RIMM.
Most machines support only one type of RAM and have one type of module or connector, so mixing types isn't an option. The few motherboards that do accept two types of RAM allow only a single type to be used at any one time.


Memory speed: SDRAM, DDR SDRAM, and RDRAM are rated to match or exceed the PC's frontside bus speed (FSB), which is the speed at which data moves between the CPU and RAM. If your system comes with PC66 SDRAM, you can use PC100 SDRAM to replace it and get the faster speed, as long as your PC's frontside bus supports the higher rate. But if you mix RAM of different speeds, all RAM will operate at the speed of the slowest chip.


Memory banks: On some PCs, the memory slot closest to the CPU--usually called bank 0--must be filled before the motherboard's other memory slots. On other systems, bank 0 must have the largest RAM module (if you are using modules of different sizes). There's no fixed rule, so check your PC's documentation.


Column address strobe: The lower the CAS rating--or the CL rating--is, the better. SDRAM comes in CL2 or CL3 types, and DDR SDRAM comes in CL2 or CL2.5. Unless your motherboard requires a specific CAS or CL rating, get the lower (faster) rated module. Cost differences should be negligible. Again, if you mix modules of different speeds, they'll all operate at the slowest module's speed.

By: Lutodlutod

How to know your motherboard are dying

0 comments
How will you now that your motherboard is dying? This has happened to me twice now. First time it was the BIOS chip that had failed on me. The board refused to get past the "verifying dmi pool data" message. New board on that one. Second time around it was the CPU overheating. If you don't mind playing with the hardware and you have some sort of speaker on the motherboard then try the following suggestions:

Remove ALL of the pci cards, the ram modules and the mouse (yes, the mouse as well) and bare-boot the board. (If you are using a separate graphics card then unplug that too for the moment). If you have a speaker connected to the board then when you try and boot you will hear a long series of continuous beeps (See PC Boot Problems), which means that the board is trying to tell you that you have no ram installed. This is good because it means that the board's BIOS chip and the CPU are working just fine at this point.

If you hear nothing then it's time to either try another CPU or to change the board. Game over...

If you get past this point then switch off and plug the ram back in, and then try a re-boot. If you have more than one module then switch off and try each one separately before booting. If the problem is the ram then this will soon show up. If you get to this point then you should hear a different set of beeps (usually one long and three short). This means the board is looking for a graphics card.

Now switch off, plug in the graphics card (if it is off-board) and try booting again. If you get a hang-up this time then you have a graphics card problem. If all is ok at this point then you can turn off the pc, replace each pci card one-by-one and try booting every time you plug one in. If the problem is with one of the cards then this will soon show up. I suspect you may fall over at one of the first two options, which means either board or CPU.

Note: not everyone knows how to tweak and configure a PC. So if you’re one of them, don’t try to experiment because it will do more damage to your system or other components. But if you got lucky, then that’s good. If you’re not sure of what you are doing on how to troubleshoot your own PC try to look for a Computer Technician because he/she knows what to do.

How to know different Hardware components need for networking

1 comments
This guide will help you decide what hardware you will need to setup you HOME network: here are a list of components, you may not need to buy depending on the number of computers you have.

1. Each machine will need a NIC (network interface connectors).
2. a hub
3. router
4. switch
5. cables (crossover / straight through)

Deciding which cable to use:
here's a small chart that will give you an idea which cable should go where:
computer to computer - crossover cable
computer to hub - straight through cable
hub port to hub port - crossover cable
hub uplink to hub port - straight through cable
computer to broadband router port - straight through cable
computer to switch - straight through cable
computer to cable modem - crossover cable
cable modem to router - crossover cable
hub uplink to switch port - straight through cable

note:
Some hubs share the connection on the Uplink Port with the port next to it. Some hubs and switches use a switch or button to enable or disable the Uplink Port. Check your product manual to see how to do this.

Maximum cable length:
Maximum cable length for Ethernet depends on what kind of Ethernet you are talking about! Here are some details on the most popular kinds of Ethernet. (UTP = unshielded twisted pair)
Gigabit Ethernet (over copper), 1000baseT
Speed: 1000 Mbps
Max Len: 100 Meters
Cable: UTP, RJ-45 connectors

Fast Ethernet, 100baseT
Speed: 100 Mbps
Max Len: 100 Meters
Cable: UTP, RJ-45 connectors

Twisted Pair Ethernet, 10baseT
Speed: 10 Mbps
Max Len: 100 Meters
Cable: UTP, RJ-45 connectors

Two computers scenario:

If you only have two computers, you will only need two nic's and a crossover cable. If you also require both computers to have internet access, then you could either
(a). Install another NIC (connect it to the cable/DSL modem with a crossover cable) or fax modem in one and connect it to the internet, then use a software proxy, ICS, Wingate, etc to share the internet.
Two computers scenario(b). Get a router (I would prefer getting a router). Connect it using a crossover cable to the cable modem and connect the computers to the built in switch on the router. Some routers don't have built in switches, in this case you will need to get a switch or hub and connect it to the internal interface of the router.
Two computers scenario
More than two computers scenario (hub/switch cascading):

With more computers you will need a hub/switch and straight through cables, connect all computers to the hub/switch with straight through cable. If you run out of ports then add another hub/switch to your network. Connect the uplink of one hub/switch to a port on the other hub/switch using a straight through cable, or connect port to port using a crossover cable.
More than two computers scenario If you have more than two hubs/switches, then connect all the hub/switches using uplink ports and straight through cables, to regular ports on a main hub/switch.
More than two computers scenario If you require internet connectivity:

(a) Install another NIC (connect it to the cable/DSL modem with a crossover cable), or fax modem in one machine and connect it to the internet. Use a software proxy, ICS, Wingate, etc to share the internet. Now connect the gateway computer and the rest of the computers to the hub's ports using straight through cables.
require internet connectivity (b) Using a broadband router, connect a cable modem with a crossover cable to the WAN port of the router, then connect the other computers to the router's LAN ports with a straight through cables.If you do not have enough ports then get more hub/switches. Connect the uplink ports to the router's LAN port with straight through cables and connect your computers to the hubs/switches. require internet connectivity

How to Decide Whether to Upgrade Your CPU/Motherboard

2 comments
Postpone a CPU/motherboard upgrade as long as possible. Upgrade your motherboard and CPU only after you exhaust the other possibilities. A major CPU/motherboard upgrade involves some serious computer surgery and has some possible negative consequences:
A CPU/motherboard combo is one of the most expensive upgrades you can make to your computer. First consider upgrading random access memory (RAM) and your video card. Adding RAM and a faster video card is (usually) cheaper than upgrading a CPU/motherboard combo. And, depending on the types of applications you run, the RAM/video card upgrade might provide a better performance boost than using a new CPU and motherboard. A side benefit is that the longer you postpone a CPU/motherboard upgrade, the more of a performance jump you get when you finally take the plunge.
A CPU/motherboard combo is one of the most difficult upgrades to install. To facilitate this upgrade, you have to take out every adapter card and unhook every wire and possibly even disassemble parts of your case — and then do it all again in reverse.
A CPU/motherboard combo has dependencies. No matter how fast your new motherboard-and-CPU combo might be, it still depends on your existing adapter cards — including video, sound, modem, and port cards — to take care of putting (respectively) video on your monitor, sound in your speakers, and Internet data in your browser.You might have to scrap your existing memory modules and power supply. Using a new CPU/motherboard combo might force you to dump all the memory modules you’ve collected over the past few years and that low-rated power supply.

Six signs a drive is about to fail

1 comments
As reliable as hard drives have become, they still have a finite lifespan. While regular backups and RAID technology can help you prevent data loss when a hard disk drive fails, it's better to catch the problem early and replace the hard disk drive on your schedule, rather than when it decides to fail.
Ironically, improvements in hard drive technology have caused some of the symptoms of impending failure to disappear. For instance, hard disk drive and controller designs now can hide the intermittent read/write failures that once foretold a hard disk drive going bad. Likewise, today's hard disk drives are virtually silent, which eliminates the changes in sound that used to alert IT personnel that a drive was going. Bearing failures, which used to be one of the most common causes of drive failure, are much less common today.
However, hard disk drives can still give off signs that they are about to fail. Including:
1. Disk takes a long time to come up. A hard disk drive that takes a long time to boot up is working hard. Maybe it's working hard because a lot of stuff needs to be initialized. But it could also be trying to compensate for intermittent read/write failures.
2. CHKDSK shows bad sectors. Bad sectors used to be a fact of life. Not any more. These days, any bad sectors showing up with chkdsk or similar disk test utilities usually mean the disk is going away. This is doubly true if the number of bad sectors is increasing, even very slowly.
3. Running hot. All drives get warm, but if the hard disk drive itself is running unusually hot compared to others in the enclosure, it is probably nearly the end of its useful life.
4. Consider the drive's history. A hard disk drive that has been dropped onto a hard surface (running or not) or else has overheated should be regarded with suspicion. It's a good candidate for failure. Overheating usually occurs when an enclosure's main fan or fans fail, allowing temperature to build up. If the system gets hot enough that you start getting read-write errors before the problem is spotted and fixed, there's a good chance the lifespan of the drives has been drastically shortened.
5. Drive LEDs that never go off. There's no relationship between overt computer activity and hard disk drive activity, as indicated by the drive LED. But if the LED used to come on intermittently and now glows constantly, something is very wrong and is probably going to get worse.
6. Disk cannot locate file table. If the disk can't find the Windows Master File Table (MFT), especially after an unexplained crash, the disk is almost certainly dying.

Common Troubleshooting Techniques and Strategies

0 comments
This got me thinking about my early days of troubleshooting. If you're just starting out in the trenches of end-user desktop support, you'll soon find out (as I did) that the same problems tend to crop up again and again and again, regardless of the user, the model of PC, or the operating system version. The following article is based on years of experience when it comes to troubleshooting PCs. It is provided as a free service to our visitors. However, The lutodlutodcapiz.blogspot.com is not responsible for any damage as a result of following any of this advice.You are welcome to distribute these computer support tips free to your friends and associates as long as it's not for commercial purposes and you acknowledge the source. You are permitted and encouraged to create links to this page from your own web site to tell your friends.Here are some common-sense techniques and strategies to solve common computer hardware problems.
(1)Trial-and-error
Personal computers are highly modular by design. The most powerful troubleshooting technique is to isolate the problem to a specific component by trial-and-error. Swap compatible components and see if the system still works. Try different peripherals on different machines and see if the same problem occurs. Make one change at a time.
(2) Its the cable.
More than 70% of all computer problems are related to cabling and connections. Ensure all cables are connected firmly. IDE and floppy ribbon cables and power cables can often go loose. Ensure microprocessor, memory modules, and adapters such as video card and sound card are inserted correctly and didn't "pop-up" during transportation.
(3) Don't be frustrated.
Don't be afraid of computer problems. It is often the best opportunity to learn. Troubleshooting is part of the fun of owning a computer. Imagine the satisfaction you could get by solving a problem yourself. Of course the fun could run out quickly once you are frustrated and have spent too much time on the same problem. If you feel frustrated, it's time to leave it for a while have a drink and go back with some new ideas or call someone who can help. You shouldn't spend more than three hours on the same problem at one time.
(4) Take notes.
Take notes of what you have done and all the error messages. You may need to use them later. For instance, when you see an unusual blue screen of death with an error message, copy the entire message onto a piece of paper. In many situations, that message may point to the right direction in getting the problem solved quickly.
(5) Take a look.
It's OK to open a computer case and take a look inside. There is only 5V and 12V DC voltage supplied to the components outside the power supply. Of course, still always shut down and unplug the power cord first. If you don’t, it will fry you.
Hope you learn something in this article. If you have any questions you are free to leave a comment. Thanks for reading.

How to Troubleshoot PC Boot Problems

1 comments
Beep Codes
The first thing that you’re computer will perform is POST (Power On Self Test), it tests the computers hardware insuring that it meets the necessary system requirements and that all hardware is working properly before starting the boot process. It later continues with additional tests (such as the memory test that you see printed on the screen) as the boot process is proceeding. If the computer passes the POST the computer will have a single beep (other computer BIOS manufacturers it may beep twice) as the computer starts and the computer will continue to start normally. However, if the computer fails the POST, the computer will either not beep at all or will generate a beep code, which tells the user the source of the problem.

What is Beep Codes?
Beep codes are the beeps you hear from the PC speaker when you turn on your computer. They are your computer’s way of letting you know what’s going on when there is no video signal or a bad memory or something rather serious goes wrong that your computer will start beeping. These codes are programmed into the BIOS of the PC. There is no official standard for these codes due to the many brands of BIOS there are on motherboards.

Pc Boot problems: (beep codes)

IBM BIOS
No Beeps - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
1 Short Beep - Normal POST, computer is ok.
2 Short Beep - POST error, review screen for error code.
Continuous Beep - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
Repeating Short Beep - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
One Long and one Short Beep - Motherboard issue.
One Long and Two Short Beeps - Video (Mono/CGA Display Circuitry) issue.
One Long and Three Short Beeps - Video (EGA) Display Circuitry.
Three Long Beeps - Keyboard / Keyboard card error.
One Beep, Blank or Incorrect Display - Video Display Circuitry.

AMI BIOS
1 short - DRAM refresh failure2 short - Parity circuit failure.
3 short - Base 64K RAM failure4 short - System timer failure.
5 short - Process failure6 short - Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
7 short - Virtual mode exception error
8 short - Display memory Read/Write test failure
9 short - ROM BIOS checksum failure
10 short - CMOS shutdown Read/Write error11 short - Cache Memory error
1 long, 3 short - Conventional/Extended memory failure
1 long, 8 short - Display/Retrace test failed

AWARD AND PHOENIX BIOS
1 short beep - Normal
2 short beeps - CMOS error
1 long and 1 short beep - RAM error
1 long and 2 short beeps - Video card error
1 long and 3 short beeps - Keyboard error
1 long and 9 short beeps - ROM error
Long continuous beeps - RAM not installed correctly
Short continuous beeps - Bad power supply or over heating